KYI ~ Clays

Clays have been used for centuries, both internally and externally and are present in almost all traditional beauty regimens. They exfoliate, clean and invigorate the skin while improving blood circulation. Clay has the ability to absorb excess oils, dirt and harmful toxins out of the skin. Our clays are cosmetic grade and in most cases are also USP/medicinal grade clays. This is important to note because technical grade clays often have dangerously high levels of lead content. Our clays have been certified to be lead free and safe for cosmetic use. We use clays in our facial masks, body powders, milk baths and as a natural earth-tone colorant for soap. Clay adds a nice dense, creamy texture to soap lather, which makes it ideal for shaving.

Various clays are made up of different mineral contents and each clay has a different effect on the skin. The high mineral content of clays rejuvenates the skin while the clay exfoliates blood circulation to the skin. Regular use of clay facials will remove dead skin cells, improve circulation to the skin, remove debris from the pores and bring about a smooth healthy glow. Each clay has the ability to absorb toxins from the skin, but differ in their level of absorption.

Bentonite

INCI: Bentonite(Cosmetic/Medicinal) Bentonite clay is a combination of montmorillonite and volcanic ash. It is a highly absorbent clay that pulls oils and toxins from the skin and is best suited for oily skin. This clay can help revitalize tired looking skin and will encourage blood flow to the skin. Bentonite is also a good clay for shaving soaps and for use as an oily hair and scalp treatment. Because of its naturally soft nature, it also makes an invigorating skin and face mask.

French Green

INCI: French Green Clay(Cosmetic/Medicinal) French Green Clay is mostly montmorillonite and is therefore highly efficient at drawing oils and toxins from the skin. It literally "drinks" oils, toxic substances and impurities from your skin. Its toning action stimulates the skin, bringing fresh blood to damaged skin cells, revitalizing the complexion while tightening pores. Use this clay for oily skin/hair types. Limit to 1 application per week. Do not use for sensitive or dry skin types. French green can also be used in body/foot powders.

Kaolin ~ Pink INCI: Kaolinite (Pink Clay)(Cosmetic/Medicinal)

Pink Kaolin is a gentle clay making it suitable for sensitive skin. It helps stimulate circulation to the skin while gently exfoliating and cleansing the skin. It does not draw oils from the skin and can therefore be used on dry skin types. This clay also gives a beautiful deep rose-color to soaps and powders.

Kaolin ~ White INCI: Kaolinite (White Clay)(Cosmetic/USP/FDA) China clay (white clay) is basically kaolinite and is the mildest of all clays. It is suitable for sensitive skin. It helps stimulate circulation to the skin while gently exfoliating and cleansing the skin. It does not draw oils from the skin and can therefore be used on dry skin types.

Montmorillonite, Red INCI: Montmorillonite (Red Clay) (Cosmetic/Medicinal) Red Montmorillonite is highly efficient at drawing oils and toxins from the skin. Use this clay for oily skin/hair types. Limit to 1 application per week. Do not use for sensitive or dry skin types.

Moroccan Red Clay INCI: Kaolinite (Moroccan Red Clay)(Cosmetic) Powdered rock from beneath the Atlas Mountains - this clay is a strong cleansing clay that will draw excess oils from the skin, stimulate circulation to the skin and act as a powerful astringent for oily skin and hair. It is very rich in iron and has been widely applied as a strong drawing clay used in medicinal preparations. Because of its drying capabilities, it is effective in treating poison oak/ivy and rashes. Those with very oily skin and acne will benefit most from this helpful clay. Use once weekly.

Multani Mitti INCI: Solum Fullonum (Fuller's Earth) Indian Fuller's Earth is similar to kaolin clay and is formed by the decomposition of volcanic ash. This clay is a strong absorbent and is good for drawing excess oils from the skin and stimulating circulation to the skin, making it a good facial clay for oily, scaly and combination skin. This clay has been widely used as a skin-lightening agent and is best known for its ability to be applied as a facial-bleach. Because of its enormous drawing capabilities, Fullers Earth is the number one choice for oily skin and those prone to acne. Limit use to once per week.

Rhassoul INCI: Moroccan Lava Clay This super fine ancient clay comes from deep below the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. Although it is difficult to obtain from the deep clay beds, it has been used for centuries by the ancient people of Rome & Egypt. Rhassoul is rich in minerals such as Silica, Magnesium, Iron, Calcium, Potassium and Sodium and helps detoxify the skin while it exfoliates gently. It leaves your skin silky smooth, removes impurities and toxins but does not strip all the oil from your skin. It is a reddish/brown clay that blends extremely well with water, making its application to the face and skin a smooth and delightful experience. Rhassoul clay is surely one of the finest treasures for pampering your skin and is used by the finest spas around the world.

Rose Clay INCI: Kaolinite (Rose Clay)(Cosmetic/UPS) Rose clay or pink clay is a mild kaolin clay that can be used on normal to dry skin to gently cleanse and exfoliate the skin while improving circulation to the skin. It does not draw oils from the skin and can therefore be used on dry skin types. Try our Rose Clay Mask! This clay also gives a beautiful pink color to soaps and powders.

KYI ~ Essential Oils

A word of caution regarding Essential Oils; please be very careful with any product that contains Essential Oils if you are pregnant, have diabetes, epilepsy, heart conditions or for small children and babies. Although they have great therapeutic properties, they could be detrimental to your health. Please consult your physician prior to using any products containing Essential Oils. Also, beware of companies who claim that their oils are essentialors, but really aren't. Essential Oils such as sandalwood, rose, jasmine, vanilla, etc. cost several hundreds to several thousands of dollars per pound. That is why you might find blends such as our "My Secret Garden", which contains Bulgarian Lavender EO, English Rose FO and a spec of Patchouli EO. If we were to use Rose EO in this blend, the price would be out of reach for most people, including us. For further information regarding Essential Oils, I highly recommend "The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils" by Julia Lawless.

Anise seed INCI: Pimpinella anisum The oil of this aromatic seed has a scent similar to licorice and is useful in the treatment of digestive and respiratory ailments. In a massage oil, anise seed oil can help alleviate muscular aches and pains, indigestion and flatulence. Anise is also useful in thinning and expulsion of bronchial mucus. When used in soap, anise is said to mask the human scent making it a great fisherman's or outdoorsman's soap!

Balsam Peru INCI: Myroxylon Pereirae (Balsam Peru) Oil Earthy, exotic and lingering all describe this woodsy-vanilla like scent. With just a little added to your lotions, creams and body sprays you will be in touch with your sensual side in no time! How do I describe it? Orgasmic - there, I said it and I'm not ashamed either (well, maybe a little!). You will fall in love with this essential oil!

Cedarwood, China INCI: Cedarwood has a warm, woody smell that blends nicely with other woody oils like vetiver & sandalwood, citrus oils, floral oils such as jasmine and neroli, basil, eucalyptus and chamomile oils. It is a powerful antiseptic, astringent and insect repellent. Use cedarwood oil to treat respiratory congestion, dandruff, oily skin, eczema, acne, athlete’s foot, cystitis, nervous tension and kidney/bladder infections. Cedarwood is a nice addition to a man's fragrance blend. Do not use during pregnancy or on small babies.

Cedarwood, Virginia INCI: Juniperus Virginiana Oil A woodsy, balsamic and the most earthy blend with just a touch of sweetness. This one blends well with grapefruit and sweet orange for an invigorating blend that has incredible holding power. This variety of cedarwood helps combat acne, oily skin, greasy hair and dandruff. It helps relax tension and promotes peaceful slumber. It has a very pretty, yet rustic scent that makes it a popular oil for blending. Cedarwood is also uplifting when used in room fragrance products.

Cinnamon Leaf INCI: Cinnamomum zeylanicum Cinnamon Leaf oil is a warming, highly aromatic, spicy oil that should not be used in skin applications but works wonderfully to cleanse and purify the air, killing germs and bacteria. Cinnamon taken internally stimulates blood circulation and warms the body. It can help relieve nausea, reduce high blood pressure and strengthen the immune system. Do not use directly on skin.

Citronella INCI: Cymbopogon nardus Citronella has a lemony aroma and is well known for its effectiveness as an insect repellent. Used in bug repellent lotion bars, flea shampoos and great for making mosquito repellent candles to be used outdoors.

Clary Sage, Bulgaria INCI: Salvia sclarea Clary Sage is a beautiful smoky floral that calms and balances the spirit. It reduces stress and brings on a feeling of tranquility. It is especially balancing on female hormones and can be used to treat PMS, menstrual cramps, postnatal depression, menopause & irregular cycles. It combines well with jasmine, geranium, lavender, bergamot, orange, ylang ylang, rosewood, sandalwood & chamomile. Do not use when pregnant.

Clove Oil INCI: Eugenia Caryophyllate Clove is a very warm, spicy aromatic oil which is most effective as an antiseptic when diffused and is a wonder for toothaches and abscesses when dabbed on the tooth (very, very carefully). Clove is a "hot" spice oil and can burn if used on the skin undiluted. Clove is stimulating to the mind, enhances concentration and can act as an aphrodisiac. It blends well with lavender, bergamot, orange, vanilla, vetiver, ylang ylang & other florals. It can help sweeten some medicinal smelling blends. A great oil for potpourris and other home fragrance products. Clove is irritating to the skin and mucous membranes so extreme care should be taken when using on the skin. It must be diluted to less than .75% Avoid during pregnancy and do not use on babies or young children.

Dillweed INCI: Anethum Graveolens Dill seed oil is a warm spicy oil generally used to aid in digestion and to relieve flatulence and colic. It can promote lactation in nursing mothers and help bring on a late period. It blends nicely with citrus oils, neroli and mint oils. DO NOT use if pregnant.

Eucalyptus, China INCI: Eucalyptus globulus Eucalyptus globulus is best known for its respiratory effects and relief for congestion. It is highly antimicrobial and a must have for the winter months. Use it in a diffuser to keep colds away. Stimulates circulation and warms the body, increases concentration, and is useful for relieving rheumatic aches and pains. Dabbed on with a q-tip, it can help stop the irritation of a bug bite. A good insect repellent and treatment for lice and athletes foot. It has a dominating scent but blends well with pine, lemon, lime, cedarwood, bergamot & tea tree. Use at half strength as a diffuser for children's rooms. Do not use in children's products.

Ginger, China INCI: Zingiber officinale Ginger is highly used as a natural remedy. It is a warm oil, that is relaxing, helps relieve nausea, indigestion, alleviates soreness and stiffness in muscles, increases circulation and strengthens the immune system during cold season. Use carefully on the skin because it can irritate if not properly diluted. Blends well with citrus oils, sandalwood, frankincense, cedarwood, palmarosa etc. Must be diluted well before using on skin or in the bath. Use with caution during pregnancy.

Lavender 40/42, France INCI: Lavandula Angustifolia This is a pleasant, not so camphorous lavender oil. Used for burns, wounds, stress relief, headaches, disinfections, air purifying, as a decongestant, etc. Lavender is the most popular essential oil for bath, skin care and aromatherapy products due to the fact that it is so safe to use and has so many beneficial properties. Use at half strength on babies and children. Do not overuse – it can become a powerful stimulant if overdosed.

Lavender, Bulgaria INCI: Lavandula officinalis Bulgarian Lavender is a high-quality, full-bodied lavender that is less camphorous than most lavenders. Enough can't be said about the uses and properties of lavender. It is a must have for the remedy chest. It can be used to relax and relieve stress, relieve headaches, reduce high blood pressure and heal burns and wounds. It kills germs and can be used in a diffuser to purify the air and reduce the spread of colds and viruses. It can also reduce cramps. This is the safest oil to use for babies and children. Bulgarian Lavender is my favorite! Avoid if you have low blood pressure.

Lemon, USA INCI: Citrus limonium With its light fresh citrus scent, it's no wonder that the Greeks used Lemon Essential Oil to perfume their clothing. In England, Lemon Essential Oil is used in hospitals to freshen the air and uplift the spirits. The oil is expressed from the outer part of the fresh peel. High in Vitamins A, B, and C. Our Lemon Essential Oil is produced in the USA, the tree grows up to 20 feet and has fragrant flowers. It is known to be an antimicrobial, disinfectant, antiseptic, insecticidal, astringent and bactericidal. Can help with bronchial problems and asthma. Lemon Essential Oil is refreshing and may help to sharpen the senses. It also may reduce stress, promote a restful sleep, be relaxing, calming, and reduce cellulite when used in a body massage oil. It is popular because of its clean fresh scent and it blends very nicely with many other oils. The astringency of lemon makes it good for oily skin and hair. Avoid direct sunlight for a few hours after use because of its photosensitizing effect.

Lemon Eucalyptus, Tasmania INCI: Eucalyptus Citriodora See Eucalyptus and Lemon Essential Oils above.

Lemongrass, India INCI: Cymbopogon flexuosus Lemongrass is stimulating, refreshing, increases alertness and concentration, relieves fatigue, aids in digestion, relieves aching muscles, soothes gastric infections and acts as an insect repellent. Used on the skin in highly diluted form, it is astringent and helps treat acne and oily skin. A good skin toner but must be used with caution on the skin. Lemongrass functions as a 'top' note in blends and smells like lemon with an earthy note. Use with caution on skin and do not use near mucous membranes.

Litsea Cubeba INCI: Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil Litsea Cubeba is an herbal, lemon scent and a must have for all soapmakers. Add a little "sunshine" to your daily bath today! Litsea Cubeba is an anchoring scent and blends well with Sandalwood, Patchouli and White Sage Fragrance Oils. Litsea, also known as May Chang, has been used in Chinese traditional medicine to treat digestive disorders, headaches, aches, pains and nausea. It can also be used to treat acne, oily skin, asthma and flatulence. It is very popular in perfumes because of its lemony scent. It can help to anchor other citrus top notes that seem to fade quickly. Litsea blends well with florals and other citrus oils. Do not apply to broken or sensitive skin. Litsea can be a sensitizer.

Niaouli, Australia INCI: Melaleuca quinquenervia Niaouli is a strong antiseptic, antibacterial oil. It is very useful during the cold season to treat head or chest colds. It can help relieve skin conditions like psoriasis and acne. It quickly heals wounds and burns. It is a good pick me up oil to have in the remedy chest. Niaouli blends nicely with basil, citrus oils, lavender, tea tree and eucalyptus. Do not use on babies or children.

Sweet Orange, Spain INCI: Citrus Sinensis Has a sweet, fresh, fruity scent. It is a very nutritious fruit containing vitamins A, B and C. Cold pressed from the fresh, ripe peel and is known to be an anti-depressant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-fungal. It may also help to reduce cellulite, stress, anxiety and acne. It is calming and helps to promote a restful sleep, along with being uplifting and may improve alertness. Sweet Orange Oil will help with colic in babies and reduce fever and headaches. It is also a very good degreaser – you’ve seen the commercials! Blends well with: Lavender, Lemon, Clary Sage, Grapefruit, Myrrh, Cinnamon, Clove, and other spices. I prefer it alone with no other notes to interfere with this delicious smelling EO! Avoid direct sunlight for a few hours after use because of its photosensitizing effect.

Valencia Orange, Spain INCI: Citrus Sinenis This is a 5-folded oil, which are concentrated citrus oils and offer several benefits. Through distillation, the turpenes are removed, thereby rendering the folded oil safe for use in leave-on products such as lotion. The concentrated scent offers resistance to oxidation, which makes the scent last longer!

Palmarosa, India INCI: Cymbopogon martini Palmarosa is very similar in scent to geranium and is often sold as Rose Geranium (which it is not). It helps calm the nervous system and acts as a natural balancer. It aids in digestion, helps with skin problems, treats acne, rejuvenates mature skin, is said to be good for stretch marks and is good for both oily and dry skin. Emotionally, Palmarosa is said to help in the release of anger and grief. It blends nicely with bergamot, rose, geranium, citrus oils, ylang ylang and other floral oils. Avoid while pregnant and do not use on babies.

Patchouli, Indonesia INCI: Pogostemon Cablini Patchouli has a warm, mellow scent that was most popular in the 60's. From Indonesia, this bushy herb growing up to 3' with a hairy stem, has large fragrant furry leaves and white flowers with a bit of purple. It is known to be an antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antiviral, aphrodisiac, stress reliever, astringent and a deodorant. This oil may help acne, athlete's foot, chapped skin, dandruff, dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema and wounds. Patchouli helps to tighten the pores of the skin and is used to combat wrinkles. It regulates oily skin and dandruff and reduces cellulite. When used in a diffuser, Patchouli helps to break up mucous and reduce a fever. Patchouli is a very popular oil for bath and skin care and blends nicely with sandalwood, cedarwood, orange, rose, geranium, lavender and other florals, especially rose. We use it as a fixative in some of our perfumes; My Secret Garden is one of them. Patchouli has a sedative effect when used in small quantities.

Peppermint, China INCI: Mentha piperita A very popular oil for bath products and pick me up remedies! Peppermint will relieve a headache or indigestion, reduce mental fatigue, increase alertness, relieve nausea, relieve itching and help you stay awake when necessary. We use Peppermint, along with Eucalyptus and Tea Tree in our For Your Feet treatment package. It will cool and soothe your achy tired feet and treat athletes foot or fungal problems at the same time! It repels insects effectively too! Not for babies. Should not be used on mucous membranes or sensitive areas.

Peppermint, USA (second distillation) INCI: Mentha piperita Redistilled oils are reheated after the steam distillation. A portion of the the oil (waxes, di methyl sulfide) is then taken out of the peppermint giving the redistilled oil a higher menthol content and a more traditional mint (candy cane) smell. Not for babies. Should not be used on mucous membranes or sensitive areas.

Petitgrain, Spain INCI: Citrus Aurantium Petitgrain is a light, fresh floral citrus from bitter orange leaves that has been used throughout the history of perfumery. It is a calming, uplifting, antidepressant. It helps relax the mind and acts as a mild sedative. It is good for relieving stress and anxiety. It blends well with so many other oils such as; Clary Sage, Ylang Ylang, Sandalwood and Rosewood.

Rosemary, Spain INCI: Rosemarinus officinalis The oil of rosemary is a stimulant and should be used with caution. It can help increase circulation and relieve pain in the joints. It can help control dandruff, oily scalp and skin, acne and is said to encourage hair growth. Rosemary is high in camphor and is traditionally used in decongestant blends and pain (muscle) relief blends (think 'Vicks Vapor Rub'). This distinctive smelling essential oil is considered stimulating in nature and is often found in energizing blends. Avoid during pregnancy or if you suffer from high blood pressure or seizures.

Spearmint, China INCI: Mentha Spicata With a slightly milder, sweeter aroma than peppermint, spearmint is a great invigorating, wake me up oil. It increases alertness, opens up the respiratory system, and lifts the spirit. It is better suited for children than peppermint and is good for tummy upsets, nausea and fever. Spearmint blends well with lavender, jasmine, bergamot, orange & sandalwood.

Tangerine, Italy INCI: Citrus reticulata Tangerine is a sweet, peace inducing citrus that is a great oil to have around for lifting your spirits and calming your nerves after a stressful day. It can really help put a smile back on your face and is a wonderful oil for babies and children. Use it in a diffuser when you want to spend some quality time with your kids. It helps reduce hyperactivity and jitteriness. Tangerine blends with so many oils and can be used in peaceful blends as well as perk up blends. Use with caution if you are going to be exposed to the sun. It is a photosensitizing oil.

Tea Tree, Australia INCI: Melaleuca alternifolia Tea Tree has gained immense recognition as the strongest anti fungal, antiviral, antibacterial oil in aromatherapy. It can be diffused or used neat and is a very popular addition to skin care formulations for its germ-killing properties. Diffuse it during cold season to keep germs from spreading. Use in masks and toners to combat acne, in lip balms to fight cold sores. Used in a balm, tea tree can quickly heal wounds and keep infection from setting in. Use it in mouth washes to treat oral disease. Tea tree blends well with lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, niaouli, spikenard, sandalwood, vetiver etc. Using this oil neat can cause skin irritation despite the many recommendations for using the oil without dilution.

Know Your Ingredients

This page is here to help you understand the different properties of each of the Oils, Butters, Essential Oils, Clays, Colorants, Herbs and all the miscellaneous cosmetic ingredients we use at Jasper's Secret Garden. I was not aware that I was allergic to Sunflower Oil until I made and used a wonderful Lavender Body Oil! There are many people who are allergic to nuts ~ Sweet Almond Oil is NOT for you! One of my testers is allergic to Chamomile and Arrowroot Powder, she's most likely allergic to ragweed. Are you allergic to chocolate? You probably will not be able to use products containing Cocoa Butter. These pages are here to help you make an informed decision - before you buy! If you have any additional questions that are not addressed on the following pages, please feel free to post - I'm here to help you!

KYI ~ Butters

Almond Butter, Sweet INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil Ultra Refined Almond Butter is derived from sweet Almonds (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis), specifically from the Mediterranean area, and is obtained by the cold pressing of selected fruits followed by a full refining process. The natural oil contains essential fatty acids, but also contains unsaponifiables. In our cosmetic formulations we feel the behavior of Almond Butter is somewhat similar to that of shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii). A very soft butter with great spread-ability making it ideal for massage butters. It adds moisturizing attributes to creams, lotions, massage oils, butters, balms and bar soaps. It hydrates the skin and restores elasticity, making it a perfect choice for lip balms and body sticks for chapped skin. It can also be added to soap, creams, lotions and bath bombs.

Avocado Butter INCI: Hydrogenated Persea gratissima (Avocado) Seed Oil Pure avocado butter is expeller crushed from the fresh flesh of the avocado fruit and then hydrogenated to yield a soft greenish butter. This is a much softer butter than any of the other butters we use. Avocado butter is a very rich, moisturizing treatment for the hair and skin, and it has some natural sunscreen properties. Use it in soap and skin care formulations at 5 - 20%. Use smaller amounts of avocado butter in lotion bars. This butter can be a little heavy and greasy, but it is definitely worth it in small amounts. Avocado butter is a good butter for belly balms, lip balms, eye makeup remover creams, hair conditioning creams, baby bottom balms and soap. We love the feel of avocado butter and have used it in lip balm, soap, lotions and creams. We have even used it as a body butter without any other ingredients! Avocado butter has little odor and is very creamy. We are sure that once you try it you will love it too.

Cocoa Butter, Deodorized INCI: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter This is a pure, food-grade cocoa butter that has been slightly deodorized to reduce the strength of the warm chocolate-y undertone of regular cocoa butter. Cocoa Butter is an emollient and makes a wonderful ingredient in our lotion bars, lip balms, body butters, bath melts and soap. We use this Cocoa Butter when we don't want the chocolate aroma to interfere with our Fragrance, Flavor or Essential Oils. How is Cocoa Butter Deodorized? The cocoa butter is deodorized via steam being injected into the melted cocoa butter to "drive off" the volatile components which contribute to the odor. The product is then treated with diatomaceous earth (clays) which remove the color agents (it is basically an extremely fine filtration process) to create a nice, white butter.

Cocoa Butter, Natural INCI: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter This butter is rock solid at room temperature, making the term "butter" a bit misleading. It is an edible vegetable fat that is obtained from cocoa beans. It has a mild chocolate flavor with a very chocolate-y aroma. Cocoa butter is one of the most stable fats (having a shelf life up to five years) and also contains natural antioxidants. It is reputed to provide a barrier that helps retain and restore the moisture in your skin. We use Natural Cocoa Butter in products for the chemically sensitive, along with Virgin Coconut Crème. Smells like a Mounds© Bar!

Hemp Seed Butter INCI: Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Hemp seed butter is made by combining the fatty fractions and unsaponifiables of cold pressed hemp seed oil with hydrogenated hemp seed oil obtained from unsterilized hemp seeds. The butter is exceptionally rich in essential fatty acids that nourish the skin and helps reduce moisture loss from the skin. Use in lip blams, hand and foot creams, lotions, soaps, body balms and other formulations for dry, damaged or irritated skin. Hemp seed butter is deep green in color and similar in feel to shea butter. It is smooth and applies like a dry oil to the skin (not a greasy product). It absorbs quickly into the skin and does not leave a greasy feel. The recommended usage rate for hemp seed butter is 5-10% in most formulations but it can also be used pure for lip or body balm.

Kokum Butter, Unrefined INCI: Garcinia Indica (Kokum) Seed Butter Kokum Butter is extracted from the fruit kernel of the Indian tree "Garcinia indica". It is the most stable and hardest exotic butter known, but melts readily on skin contact. This kokum butter is natural - unrefined and not modified. As our supplier puts it: "it is what it is: hard and slightly off-white, without refining." Most kokum butters on the market have been modified to have an even viscosity, so they are smoother and whiter. They are then further refined with viscosity modifiers (capric/caprylic triglycerides or some fatty esters or fatty alcohols). Even though ours isn't smooth, it is very nice in a finished product - and you don't have to wonder what has been added. With its excellent emollient properties, it helps to soften and soothe dry and damaged skin. It may help in preventing and reducing wrinkles, reduce degeneration of skin cells and help restore elasticity and flexibility to the skin. It is also very effective on ulcerations and fissures of the hands, lips and soles of feet.

Macadamia Butter INCI: Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Macadamia Seed Oil Macadamia Butter is ultra refined to get a soft white solid fat. The butter contains natural waxes that are removed during cold pressing and is combined with hydrogenated macadamia nut oil. Macadamia Butter is great for emollient products like creams and lotions, as well as for balms, soaps and hair conditioners. It may also be used at 100% as a skin balm. Macadamia butter provides excellent emolliency and dermal protection. It is a light, non greasy butter that penetrates the skin easily.

Mango Butter INCI: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter Mango Butter is obtained from the kernels of the mango tree. It has a high content of stearic acid which makes it similar to cocoa butter. It has good emolliency and lends a protective effect against the sun. It is said to prevent drying of the skin and formation of wrinkles :o)! It reduces degeneration of skin cells and restores flexibility.

Mowrah Butter INCI: Madhuca Latifolia (Mowrah) Seed Butter Mowrah Butter is obtained from the fruit of the Indian tree (Madhuca Latifolia). From its seed kernels the butter is extracted and further processed and refined to obtain a yellow/white butter which has a very mild odor, suitable for cosmetics and toiletries. The "butter" is of significant commercial importance in India and is used for both edible and cosmetic applications. The Butter is solid at room temperature, but melts readily on contact with the skin. Efficacy: Prevents drying of the skin and development of wrinkles. Reduces degeneration of skin cells and restores skin flexibility.

Olive Butter INCI: Olea europea (Olive) Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Olive butter is the butter obtained from cold pressed olives. The extracted oil undergoes a unique refining process to collect the unsaponifables. Olive butter possesses all of the natural qualities of olive oil and is similar in feel to shea butter. It has excellent spreadability and can be used as a massage butter. It can be added to soap, creams, lotions, lip balms, body butters, hair pomades, bath bombs and more. Use at 3% or more in your formulations. Olive butter can also be used "as is." You can even try this butter as a 100% pure foot balm or cuticle cream. WONDERFUL!

Sal Butter INCI: Shorea Robusta (Sal) Seed Butter This butter is obtained from the fruit kernels of the Sal tree, Shorea Robusta. It is a good emollient and prevents drying of the skin. Sal Butter combines all the best qualities of cocoa butter (without the scent) and mango butter. Like mango butter, it combines good emolliency properties with superior oxidative stability. It is solid at room temperature, but melts readily on skin contact.

Shea Butter, Ghana Gold INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit Completely natural; no chemical, preservatives or additives before or after processing. Ghana Gold has a sweet-smoky aroma and is unrefined. The content in Shea butter of unsaponifiable fats is remarkable in comparison with other oils. That means that even though it's a "fat" it won't turn into soap in the presence of a strong alkali so its moisturizing properties remain viable. It's said that unsaponifiables help keep the skin young by stimulating the tissue and helping the skin make its own collagen.

Shea Butter, Ultra Refined INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit African healers have used Shea Butter for thousands of years as the ideal treatment for dry or aging skin. Its high content of unsaponifiable fatty acids gives it the ability to moisturize and retain the elasticity of the skin. Shea Butter also protects the skin against the damaging effects of the sun while repairing cellular degeneration (rich in Vitamin F). Other benefits of Shea Butter: for treatment of dark spots, blemishes, skin discolorations, scars and wrinkles, reduces facial lines, stretch mark prevention and minimization, evens out your skin tone, returns luster to skin and hair, moisturizes and protects skin and scalp, especially processed and heat-treated hair, doesn't clog pores or block hair shaft, it also enhances cell regeneration and capillary circulation that helps the healing of small wounds, cracks, crevices and skin ulcers. This Shea Butter is extracted and refined without the use of harsh chemicals. Try our Foot, Hand, Face or Lip balm, you'll be glad you did!

KYI ~ Carrier Oils

Apricot Kernel Oil INCI: Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil Apricot Kernel Oil is a light but rich oil that is high in oleic and linoleic acids. It is similar to Sweet Almond Oil and is readily absorbed into the skin. It is especially good for mature skin, sensitive skin and skin that is inflamed or dry. Apricot Kernel Oil makes a wonderful massage oil for babies and adults and is great for use in creams, lotions, balms, and soaps.

Avocado Oil INCI: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil Avocado oil has been used for centuries in African skin treatments. This luxuriously smooth and highly therapeutic oil is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2 Panthothenic acid, Vitamin D, E, protein, lecithin and fatty acids. It's a very good nutrient for dry skin and eczema. Avocado oil is said to have healing and regenerating qualities. It's a superb emollient and despite its thickness, it has the ability to penetrate the upper layers of the skin, to moisturize and soothe.

Calendula Oil INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract This oil is made by macerating and infusing calendula petals in Virgin Olive Oil. Calendula is most recognized for its ability to heal wounds, burns, lesions and abrasions. Good for all skin types, especially for chapped, dry or damaged skin.

Camellia Oil INCI: Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Camellia is a flowering shrub in the tea family, native to Japan, where for centuries women have used the seed oil for nourishing their hair, skin and nails. Very high in oleic acid (80%), Camellia oil has excellent conditioning properties. Feels silky on the skin and is similar in color and viscosity to jojoba. It penetrates quickly and can be used undiluted on the skin, hair and nails. It is a wonderful addition to creams for dry, damaged skin, hair conditioners, scalp treatments, eye creams, after sun skin care products. It is an exceptional oil for toiletries and soaps and can be used as a carrier oil for aromatherapy treatments.

Castor Oil INCI: Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil This oil is rich in fatty acids and is very soothing/lubricating to the skin. It acts as a humectant, attracting moisture to the skin. We use it in hair oils, balms, and other thick emulsions for the skin and hair. In combination with other oils and as a superfatting agent, castor makes a nice, emollient bar of soap. It, however, is used at low percentages to avoid “soft” soaps. It is a very stable oil and makes clouds of luxurious lather. We also use it in our Deodorant Balm, Perfume Solids, Lotion Bars and Perfume Oils for extra slip.

Coconut Oil, 76º INCI: Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Oil This is 76 degree, refined, bleached and deodorized coconut oil. This coconut oil is extracted from dried coconuts, also known as copra and is primarily cultivated from Southeast Asia and the Philippines. The coconuts are cut and dried until the moisture content of the meat is minimized. The dried copra is then grated and expeller pressed to remove the oil. Finally, the oil is refined to produce an oil suitable for consumption. Coconut oil is a very good carrier oil for dry, itchy, sensitive skin. It will not clog pores and it absorbs readily into the skin with a melt point of 76 degrees. Coconut oil is a gift to the soap making industry because of its resistance to rancidity and contribution to a good, hard soap with a wonderful, fluffy lather. Coconut oil is light and non-greasy. It can be incorporated well into balms and stick formulations. Herbal hair infusions are often infused in coconut oil. This Coconut oil is wonderful for soap making, however, for the best quality coconut oil for skin care formulations we use our Virgin Coconut Crème.

Coconut Oil, fractionated INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride This is a very light, colorless, odorless oil often preferred by massage therapists because of its non-greasy feel and non-staining character. It is a good substitute for Sweet Almond Oil, if you are allergic to nuts. Fractionated Coconut Oil is the closest substance to human sub-cutaneous fat and more compatible with skin than vegetable oils. It does not clog pores making it an ideal carrier for oily or troubled skin.

Coconut Crème, Virgin INCI: Cocos Nucifera (Virgin Coconut) Oil Ah ~ where to begin! Out of all the carrier oils we use, this is my absolute favorite! This is a virgin, cold pressed, ultra pure coconut oil that has been extracted from fresh coconut milk. This oil is different from commercial coconut oils in that it has not been extracted from the dried copra with the use of high temperatures or solvents and therefore does not need to undergo any restorative treatments to remove solvents and impurities. This unique cold process extraction conserves all of the functional components of coconut oil: squalene, tocopherols, sterol, etc. Virgin Coconut Crème (Oil) is a very light, penetrating oil with excellent shelf life and stability that performs similarly to Kukui, Jojoba, Illipe and Shea Butter. In countries where it is produced, it is a food source and has been found to be the best source of monolaurin, a well known antiseptic substance found in mothers' milk. Here are just a few properties of this delicious oil: Moisturizes and protects skin and hair, anti fungal, non-greasy, non-staining, lends oxidative stability to formulations, high in unsaponifiables, which makes it a wonderful oil in soaps, high Vitamin E content, when used as a carrier for essential oils, it encapsulates the oil and prevents evaporation of the volatile components; which in turn, helps deliver the essential oil(s) under the skin. It smells like fresh coconut milk! We use this oil in our Goat's Milk and Coconut based soaps, Bath Melts, Foot Balms, Hand Balms, Face Balms and Lip Balms!

Evening Primrose INCI: Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil Evening Primrose contains 9% gamma-linolenic acid (an essential fatty acid) making it an exceptionally nourishing oil. The human body does not produce essential fatty acids such as linoleic and linolenic acids, therefore, it is important to get these nutrients through diet and skin care products. Essential fatty acids inhibit bacterial growth and allow our systems to defend against infection and inflammation. This oil is highly recommended for dry skin problems such as eczema and psoriasis. Preliminary studies in Sweden relate Evening Primrose Oil to an anti-oxidant in that it also counteracts the formation of free radicals often associated with the aging process. You will find it is a fabulous oil for products used directly on your skin such as crèmes, lotions, eye crèmes or body sprays. Its feel is silky and highly absorbent. One application will convince you.

Grapeseed Oil INCI: Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil Grapeseed Oil is rich in vitamins, minerals, linoleic acid and other essential fatty acids which help strengthen tissue cells and help preserve the natural moisture of the skin. It is a good, light, slightly astringent, penetrating oil popular for massage. Used in lotions, creams, lip balms, eye creams, soaps and special formulations intended for dry, damaged or aging skin.

Hazelnut Oil INCI: Corylus Americana (Hazel) Seed Oil Hazelnut Oil is a wonderful light, penetrating oil that is slightly astringent, making it a good oil for acne prone skin. It is high in the essential fatty acids and is soothing and healing to dry irritated skin. Hazelnut Oil contains essential fatty acids including linoleic acid. It has a slight nutty aroma, penetrates quickly into the skin, and has a very fine texture. It is one of the most highly unsaturated vegetable oils. Hazelnut has great moisturizing qualities which makes it a good choice to include when mixing a massage oil or preparing a carrier blend. Hazelnut Oil is heralded as an oil that helps to tone and tighten the skin while strengthening capillaries and assisting in cell regeneration. Try using Hazelnut Oil in a body wrap, which really works well. This is one of the best guarded secrets of top models. Apply lots of this great oil to your thighs and buttocks. Then wrap with several layers of plastic wrap followed by warm towels. Stay wrapped for 1 hour. The results are amazing. Your thighs and buttocks will be firmer and smoother and you may loose an inch or two. Models use this treatment before swimsuit photo shoots. Hazelnut oil has good astringent qualities and it is said to help maintain the skin's firmness and elasticity, which makes it a superb carrier to use on oily and combination skins. Good for facial blends for oily or combination skin. In folk medicine Hazelnut Oil has been used to massage children with respiratory problems. Hazelnut Oil is a light, penetrating oil. It is slightly astringent and is a suitable addition to formulations intended to be used on acne prone skin. Hazelnut Oil is high in essential fatty acids and is soothing and healing to dry, irritated skin. Hazelnut Oil is commonly used in sun care products, and studies have shown that it may filter sun rays. Hazelnut Oil is a nourishing addition to massage, hair care, cream, lotion and soap formulations.

Hemp Seed Oil INCI: Cannabis sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil This imported Hemp Seed Oil is pressed from the finest seeds available. Hemp Oil has the lowest amount of saturated fatty acids and the highest amount of the polyunsaturated essential fatty acids (linoleic and linolenic acids) making it a key nutritive ingredient in anti-inflammatory skin care formulations. Hemp oil is said to aid in the healing of skin lesions, dry skin, inflammations of the skin and joints. We use Hemp Seed Oil in our soaps, lotions, lip balms and special formulations for dry, damaged or aging skin. We also combine Hemp Oil with herbal infusions and butters to create healing balms and salves. This Hemp Seed Oil is a DEEP emerald green and has a nutty scent.

Jojoba Oil, Golden INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Jojoba Oil is not an oil but a liquid wax. It is highly penetrating and closely resembles our sebum. It can control excess sebum production thereby helping with oily skin and acne. Jojoba Oil contains myristic acid which is anti-inflammatory making it a good oil for arthritis and rheumatism. Jojoba Oil alone makes an excellent hair conditioner as well as a facial moisturizer - you will be delighted with the results! You can find this oil in any Health Food store. Make sure it says 100% pure, cold pressed and no chemicals!

Macadamia Nut Oil INCI: Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil Macadamia nut oil is a very stable oil because of its mono-unsaturated nature. The high content of palmitoleic acid also makes macadamia nut oil an effective anti-oxidant. It is suitable for all skin types but is particularly good for dry or mature skin because of its high percentage of palmitoleic acid. The palmitoleic acid protects the skin just like human sebum does. It penetrates and hydrates the skin quickly making it an ideal ingredient in lotions, creams, balms, massage oils, soaps and bath oils. Macadamia Nut Oil (as well as Kukui Oil) have a centuries old tradition of being oils prized in the Hawaiian Islands as a treatment for both skin and hair. It is a highly absorbable oil that is extremely nourishing to mature and/or dry skin.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil INCI: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil Meadowfoam Seed Oil is an herbaceous winter annual plant, native to the pacific Northwest area of the United States. The oil from this plant was recognized for its outstanding oxidative stability. It is unique in that it contains over 98% fatty acids having over 20 carbon atoms. This oil was developed to replace sperm whale oil in the 70's in an effort to protect the species. It remains liquid at room temperature despite its high molecular weight and is one of the most stable lipids known. Meadowfoam Seed Oil is so stable that it actually confers stability to other oils, such as Sweet Almond, Kukui, Evening Primrose, Borage, Hemp, etc. Meadowfoam Seed Oil is said to moisturize the skin and hair better than most oils and help prevent moisture loss. In hair care products it helps add shine and moisture to the hair and scalp. In lipsticks and lip balms, it helps revitalize dry, cracked lips, keeps them moist longer and provides very good adhesion so they stay on longer. It provides good slip in massage oils and creams.

Monoi de Tahiti INCI: Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Gardenia Tahitensis Monoi means "sweet scented oil" in Maohi, the ancient traditional language of the French Polynesians. The secret of Monoi de Tahiti® lies in the delicate 100% natural vegetable blend that is extracted from the rich Tahitian Tumu Ha'ari (Cocos Nucifera) palm tree and from the local "Tiaré" (Gardenia Tahitensis) flowers. Together they create a rich, non-greasy emollient/moisturizer that penetrates quickly into the skin and acts as a natural barrier against dehydration, which is the major cause of wrinkles. A few drops deep-moisturize and instantly re-hydrate the driest skin. When applied as a pre-shampoo hair repair treatment, Monoï de Tahiti restores its lustrous shine to dry or even badly damaged chemically-processed hair. This is the only oil that we sell.

Palm Kernel Oil (Flakes) INCI: Elaeis guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil Palm Kernel Oil (which is simply flaked Palm Kernel Oil) is very similar to coconut oil in that it has a high percentage of lauric acid which allows it to produce a hard soap that lathers well and gives hardness to balms and stick formulations. It's often used in place of Coconut oil for those individuals who are sensitive to coconut. It can also be used in conjunction with coconut as it has nearly identical properties. It lends a smooth texture to soaps and balms. It is also used to stiffen hair pomades and other thick formulations.

Palm Oil (RDB) INCI: Elaeis guineensis (Palm) Oil Palm Oil is produced from the fruit of the oil palm, or Elaeis Guinnesis tree, which originated in West Guinea. Currently, Malaysia is the largest exporter of Palm Oil in the world. A unique feature of Palm Oil is that it produces two types of oil - palm oil from the flesh of the fruit, and palm kernel oil from the seed or kernel. It begins as a red-orange oil that is Refined, Bleached and Deodorized (RBD Palm) to produce the finished product that we use for soap making. Our Palm oil is physically refined without the use of chemical solvents, thereby reducing the risk of residue contamination. Palm Oil is both conditioning and makes an excellent hard bar of soap. It is very high in vitamin E which is said to play a protective role in cellular aging.

Peach Kernel Oil INCI: Prunus persica (Peach) Kernel Oil Our Peach Kernel Oil is similar to Apricot Kernel Oil. It is a light, penetrating oil that is good for mature or sensitive skin. Use Peach Kernel Oil to make light creams and lotions, massage oils and more. Peach Kernel Oil is a great oil for lip balms because it absorbs easily and does not leave a greasy feeling. It can also be used as a substitute for Sweet Almond Oil or Grapeseed Oil.

Pumpkin Seed Oil INCI: Cucurbita pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil Pumpkin seed oil is a dark, highly emollient oil rich in vitamins A, C, E and K and zinc. It is also high in unsaturated fatty acids (about 60%). When used sparingly, it is a suitable and nourishing addition to our creams, lotions, bath oils, massage oils and lotion bar formulations.

Rice Bran Oil INCI: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil Rice Bran Oil is particularly high in the fatty acids and rich in unsaponifiables. It has some anti-oxidizing properties as well as some sunscreen properties. Softens and moisturizes your skin. It is good for mature, delicate or sensitive skin. Rice Bran Oil contains three different kinds of natural antioxidants, namely Tocopherol, Tocotrienol, and Oryzanol. For a long time, there has been a tradition in Japan that women rub rice bran in or put rice bran oil on their face to keep their skin smooth. These women, having smooth and shiny skin, are called "Nuka-Bijin" ("Bran Beauty" in English). It is a tradition and people don't know the real reason why rice bran or rice bran oil is effective in keeping skin smooth but it is thought that it relates to the functions of minor components of the Rice Bran Oil. The oryzanol, for example, can impede the progress of melanin pigmentation by restraining the eryhema activity of tyrosinase as it intercepts the ultraviolet rays at the skin's surface and hinders its (ultraviolet rays) transmission, and because of this, rice bran oil is used in sunscreen products and hair conditioners. Rice Bran Oil has a smooth spreadability and can be used in lip balms too. Rice bran oil is being used as an ingredient in cosmetics, and this market is growing remarkably in the U.S.

Rosehip Seed Oil INCI: Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Oil Rosehip Oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals. It has natural anti-oxidant properties and is slightly astringent. It has been shown to help improve elasticity of the skin, regenerate skin cells, slow down premature aging, reduce the formation of wrinkles, and reduce scarring (prevents the formation of keloid scar tissue). Used in face blends for maturing skin or in blends for damaged skin where the regeneration of new skin cells is needed.

Safflower Oil, High Linoleic INCI: Carthamus tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil High Linoleic Safflower Oil is produced from safflower seeds that have been grown in conditions that help promote a high content of linoleic acid, an Omega-6 essential fatty acid. High Linoleic Safflower Oil helps to moisturize, nourish and restructure the skin. Use High Linoleic Safflower Oil in creams, body balms, lip balms and other moisturizing products. It also works well in salt and sugar scrubs as well as bath bombs and dispersing bath oils.

Shea Oil INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Seed Oil This oil is fractionated Shea Butter. It is liquid at room temperature and is excellent for adding to soap, as well as lotions, creams and delicate eye lotions. It is a very lubricating oil and is a good addition to massage oils. Shea oil has all of the wonderful properties of Shea butter but is easier to use in certain formulations due to its lower melting point. Such a blessing! (Shea Butter can be a bit temperamental to work with when melting it. It goes grainy if you don’t do it right, nothing wrong with it if it does, it just doesn't look as smooth and creamy as I'd like it to look!)

Sunflower Oil INCI: Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Sunflower oil has large amounts of essential fatty acids as well as a high amount of Vitamin E. As one of the more cost effective oils, it is a good oil to blend with other base oils in massage or perfume bases. This oil does tend to leave a more oily feeling on the skin. Some soap makers choose to use it in large percentages in their soaping recipes as a nice alternative to the higher priced Olive Oil. It helps to provide a stable, conditioning lather in soap. It is a more lightweight oil so it's wonderful in bath oils and lotions but does have a slow absorption rate (thus the oily feel). Refrigerate this oil to help increase the life of the oil. Some oil experts suggest a shorter shelf life than 6 months.

Sweet Almond Oil INCI: Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil We use this luxurious, light oil in our soap for its moisturizing properties. Sweet Almond Oil is renowned for its rich concentration of oleic and linoleic essential fatty acids which help to give it unequalled penetrating and restructuring properties. This oil also makes an unparalleled carrier for salt (in salt or sugar scrubs). Sweet Almond Oil is cold pressed using only almonds. This oil is a great nutrient for softening and conditioning skin. It's especially suitable for eczema, itchy, dry and inflamed skin. It contains glucosides, vitamins and minerals and makes an excellent massage oil. Please do not use this oil if you are allergic to nuts. Let us know if you are and we will substitute another oil in its place.

Wheatgerm Oil INCI: Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil This oil is expressed from the germ of the wheat kernel and is rich in vitamins A, B, D and more importantly, E. Can be used to prolong the shelf life of massage oils. It is very nourishing to the skin and prevents moisture loss from the skin and soothes irritated, sunburned or burned skin. It also makes a wonderful massage or after-bath body oil.